“Riding of the Marches” has been for centuries the term used to describe an inspection of the boundaries of a property or township, and almost without thinking, we nowadays associate the word “Riding” with horses. It’s an understandable mistake because more often than not, it has been the historic custom throughout the Borders to use horses while inspecting the many miles over rough land and sea which constitute a town’s boundaries.
However, it is more likely than not that the word was originally a form of the old Scottish verb “to rede”, which means “to clear; to make way; to put in order” and it is also probable that “Marches” comes from the Anglo-Saxon word “mearc” meaning “boundary”. And so it is that when Annanites of old “rede the mearcs” they were fixing a boundary which defined the town and the land beyond it. When the cavalcade of horses stops along the town’s 15 mile perimeter it is often regarded merely as a respite for horses and riders but each stop has a place in tradition.
The “Hole in the Hedge” at Landheads marks the ancient site of Willie Cron’s Smithy and some claim that when the Smithy stood there a boy was pushed through the window to look out for “marauders”. More likely is, as others suggest, that in times of “whipping posts” the hedge marked the spot where local boys were thrashed, to painfully imprint on their memories where they might safely venture but go no further! Each year a local child is sent through the hole in the hedge to check the boundary . . . and still receives a “skelp” on their rear end, so the memory remains etched on their mind!
The town’s Snuff Box is also passed around at Landheads. The Box was presented in 1807 to Annan Town Council by Brigadier General Dirom of nearby Mount Annan and the partaking of snuff has continued since then as part of the March Riding celebrations.
At this time, a commemorative poem, written by the late Councillor Jim Johnston, and first read out in 1983, is presented to the assembled riders and supporters:
Tak heed ! Tak heed ! Tae things that couldnae heppen onywhere at a’- onywhere at a’ except at auld Lanheid. The Snuff Box haes been handit roon. That was a preesent tae the Toon frae auld Mount Annan’s General o’ that time. Whit better place for it tae shew it’s face than here on Mairches Day - on Mairches Ridin’ Day at auld Lanheid. ? Annent this hedge a smiddy stood, by side o’ boond’ry line. It’s there nae mair, so that is why we care for what went on. I’ve got a boy here at the riddy, tae merk the site o’ that auld smiddy. So spare a thocht for them that’s gone, includin’ Tam an’ Willie Cron.
Also visited on the boundary route are the Belted Stane and the Cairn of Creca, (where fairies are supposed to have danced by the light of the moon), and depending on the tides the Burgh Standard is presented on the Solway Shore, where redding the town’s most southerly border will take place, with the cavalcade (hopefully) able to circle the Altar Stane – a large table-sized rock out in the Solway sands. When the Standard finally returns to the town centre it will have been shown proudly along the limits of our ancient and Royal Burgh and all marauders will have been put to flight!
And so to all who “red”, “redd”, “rede” or “ride” the “mearcs”, “marrces”, “marces” or “marches”. . . “Safe Oot! Safe In!”
While the Marches of the Royal Burgh of Annan were kept secure, the land and property within the boundaries were often sold off. In the 1780s common land within the Burgh was in feu or let to various individuals as heritors of the town. Finally in the period 1796–1806 the common land was sold to pay off the town’s debts when the Burgh had incurred building and equipping schools, providing harbour facilities and also paying a share of the district’s new turnpike roads.
When the 5.30am bugle call awakens Annanites from their slumbers on the first Saturday of each July, townsfolk will know that within two hours, our Cornet and his Lass will lead a cavalcade of riders out of the town with the words “Safe Oot! Safe In!” ringing in their ears, and so will begin the annual “Riding of the Marches.”
They will be forging the latest link in a chain of tradition which stretches back over 700 years to when our forefathers inspected our town boundaries by necessity, to ascertain that landmarks – crosses, cairns, streams, wells, etc. – had not been removed or tampered with, and so ensured our town’s borders were secure and intact.
The Parish of Annan covers a much larger area than the Burgh of Annan. The charter, granted by King James V in 1538, confers on the town the title The Royal Burgh of Annan. This was an award to the townspeople for their loyalty to the Crown in times of border unrest. The charter precisely outlined the March or boundary of Annan Burgh and gave rights to graze, fishing and cutting peat for fuel to the inhabitants of the Burgh.
The boundary or March of the Royal Burgh of Annan – which will be checked by the Cornet and his followers – was clearly defined in the Royal Charter.
The status of Annan as a Royal Burgh comes from the CHARTER by King James V, in favour of the Burgh of Annan – 1st March, 1538 essentially in recognition of the town’s efforts to repel invading armies on many occasions. The Record Office believes that Annan was originally a Burgh of Barony, created by the Bruces in the late 13th century. The 1538 charter is the earliest surviving ‘Royal’ one and is a re-erection by James V, meaning that Royal Burgh status had first been granted at an unknown earlier date.
The charter is in the Great Seal Registers among records of Chancery, ref: C2/26 no. 340 and sets out the boundaries our Cornet and his cavalcade inspect each year.
JAMES, by the Grace of God King of the Scots, to all worthy men of his whole realm, clerical and lay, greeting:
Be it known unto you that, after having arrived at the mature age of twenty-five years, understanding, and considering that our burgh of Annan, situated upon our Western boundaries, near the kingdom of England, lying within our Stewartry of Annandale, has often, at divers times, been burnt and destroyed, and the burgesses and inhabitants of the same, in times of peace as well as of war, been plundered and slain by our ancient enemies of England, in protection of our kingdom, and have often placed their lives in extreme jeopardy, in resistance of our ancient enemies aforesaid, and in defence of the limits and boundaries of our kingdom, opposite those parts of England, and have always been faithful and just to our Crown of Scotland.
(Which are then listed and a note of which is presented in the article “Where are our Boundaries?”)
With the net fishing from the river to the sea; with power to the aforesaid burgesses and community of our burgh of breaking in and cultivating their common lands, and of making thereon mills, mill-hills, aqueducts, and dams for their greatest advantage and profit; and of making baillies, and electing other officers yearly, necessary for the government of said burgh, …. and also of freely keeping and having bakers, fishers, fleshers, etc., as any other burgh within our kingdom enjoys, has, or possesses; and of having and holding the said burgh of Annan, for the future, with all other liberties and privileges of a free burgh, ….. and paying to us and our successors the burghal dues of said burgh due to us of use and wont.
Wherefore, moved by piety, and desiring a reformation of the evils aforesaid, and that we may give to the said inhabitants an opportunity of magnanimity and boldness, in the resistance of our enemies aforesaid –
We have anew infefted, given, and granted, and, for ourselves – and our successors – we in perpetuity anew confirm to the burgh and town of Annan, in free burrage, in future, for ever, with all and each of its lands, annual revenues, and possessions, and fishings whatsoever pertaining to the same, within the bounds.
The charter was witnessed by many in the King’s Court in Edinburgh.
A Charter was also granted by King James VI and I in favour of the Burgh of Annan, dated 10th July, 1612.
This ancient name is retained by the farm, which is situated at the highest point within the Burgh March.
The muir lies east of Beltedstane Farm, Creca. The granite boulder, the “Belted Stane”, lies between the farm and the rough ground.
This is a well in a field near Creca Hall Farm.
Now a ruin, the remains of the farm steading are adjacent to Shawhead Farm.
Located at the edge of the Gill Wood; the site of a prehistoric stone circle, then the site of St. Marjory’s Cross.
This is assumed to be the southern end of the Gill Wood.
Another name for “The Swordwell” on the north side of the B721 Annan to Gretna road.
The stream, which is often called Peggy’s Burn begins near Swordwell Farm and flows past Beckfoot Farm to the Solway. The course of the burn forms the Burgh’s Eastern March.
This large boulder lies on the Whan Scar on the Gowkesk (Gowkie) Sand Rigg in the middle of the Solway between Batthehill and Bowness in Cumbria. Although the stone is the size of a large kitchen table, it is more often than not covered by the ever-shifting sands, and is difficult to approach.
The mouth of the River Annan at Waterfoot. The hill above is now marked by a navigational beacon. This was the site of Annan lighthouse, a wooden structure which was burned down in the 1970s.
Is this where the Gulliealnds or Northfield Burn joins the River Annan at Northfield as this is the highest point reached by the Spring Tides. If this were the case, the right to fish from the sea to the river, as detailed in the charter, would encompass this stretch of the River Annan. The alternative location is where the North Burn enters the River Annan at the bottom of the Battery Brae. This stream now flows down a culvert under Lady Street and Bruce Street. However, at about the time of the 1538 Charter this stream was called the Kirk Burn. The use of the common land and the other rights of the residents of the Royal Burgh were a gift from the Crown and as such were safe from the designs of the surrounding large landowners for all time.
Birkbeck was a dwelling on the east side of the River Annan. The buildings appear to occupy a site between the present day houses of Mount Annan and Cleughhead. The exact location of the Sandy Pool in the River Annan is less certain as the river bed has changed over the past 500 years. The only area on this stretch of river which is still relatively flat and sandy is where the Beucherbeck meets the river and this can be assumed to have been a sandy pool before the river was contained within the present banks.
This stream rises on Brown Muir and joins the River Annan at Cleughhead. The course of the burn forms the Burgh’s Northern March.
The Hollandbog well is located about midway between Williamwood House and Jockstown Farm. The well is about 300 feet above sea level.
Should this read Williamwood? The line of the march is described as bordering both “Warmanby” and Dumbretton, which today does not make sense. Perhaps more geographically accurate would be if the ‘border’ was between Dumbretton and Williamwood.
